India

Srinagar, Kashmir, India

Srinagar is a magic city made up of lakes, rivers and canals. The vitality of all life takes place in and around the water. What a trip―floating shops everywhere. Everyone travels on slim boats, silently rowing the waterways . . . We get a private houseboat nearby as the storm descends upon us. Page 327 Wanderer

We are rolling on the river in our own small boat, called a shikara. We gently move down the waterway past the endless floating shops and houseboats. Page 328 Wanderer

The three of us decide to row to Nagin Lake. We row for hours and hours, getting lost in the waterways and canals. We finally arrive at the lake for a much anticipated little dip in the cool water ringed by snow-topped mountains. Page 330 Wanderer

The single rower sits in the back up on the stern and powers the boat himself, while those in front are passengers. Sort of like the gondolas of Venice, but the shikara is much smaller. We take turns rowing, as it gets tiring. Page 330 Wanderer

Richard and I have decided to climb a mountain together. Our mountain is near Shalimar Gardens and sticks up in the middle of the southern Srinagar Valley. There is a temple on top of the mountain. We head straight up the face and the steep climb is rough on the body. Page 331 Wanderer

About two thirds of the way up, we turn to behold a stunning sight of the entire green valley, the Vale of Kashmir. “Wow! Would you just look at that. The pure essence of natural beauty,” I say. “Yes, mate, this is amazing. We can see the whole valley below and all the layer upon layers of breathtaking landscape.” Page 331 Wanderer

Pehalgam, India

Pehalgam is at the confluence of two rushing Himalayan snow melt rivers. It has a genuine Alpine feel, and seems like a summer camp in a National Park back in the U.S. There are very few motor vehicles here, as most either walk or ride horses. It is very “laid back”. Page 333 Wanderer

We are camping amongst the beauty of the tall pine trees growing up the sides of the mountain. We are nestled at the river’s edge, with the ever pervading sounds of rushing water and the powerful scent of the evergreen forest. It is peaceful and surreal out here in nature away from all the congestions of the well-populated areas of India. Page 334 Wanderer

Good morning. The beautiful Himalayan sun is shining in a cloudless blue sky. The huge evergreens soak up the sun’s rays. The mountain stands tall, as I absorb the scene sitting by the edge of the river puffing on a hookah. Life is grand. I’ve got a small campfire going, boiling some hot water for coffee or tea. Page 334 Wanderer

We stay close to the roaring river with streams pouring down from above. We are climbing up, up, up, slow but steady, moving ever up. Now and then a fantastic view opens up amongst the gray rock and green canopy. The valley landscape encompassed by the mountains is breathtakingly picturesque. Wow! Page 334 Wanderer In the morning I wake to a glorious sunshine glaring off a frigid green lake. We are twelve thousand five hundred feet above sea-level. Water pours into the lake from everywhere, then at the other end of the lake it drains into a river stream. Page 338 Wanderer

Then suddenly the clouds break open and the moon¬light shines on a vast semi-frozen lake. We trek around the lake till we locate an old shack with no doors or windows or floors. This must be the free rustic lodge the tourist office spoke of. We are finally at Lake Sheshnag and its freezing up here in the dark night. Page 338 Wanderer Pahalgam – Mountain ViewTrek Good morning. The beautiful Himalayan sun is shining in a cloudless blue sky. The huge evergreens soak up the sun’s rays. The mountain stands tall, as I absorb the scene sitting by the edge of the river puffing on a hookah. Life is grand. I’ve got a small campfire going, boiling some hot water for coffee or tea. Page 334 Wanderer

McLeod Ganj, Dharmsala, India

The lush green jungles of the mountain environment are mood pervading. Many monkeys roam about. Very exotic. Page 352 Wanderer

I am in the home territory of Tenzin Gyatso, the fourteenth Dalai Lama. He chose Dharmsala as the capital-in-exile of the Tibetan people after fleeing Chinese oppression in 1959. The divine presence of the Dalai Lama draws seekers of spiritual enlightenment from all over the globe. Page 353 Wanderer

The hotel is located on the main, and really the only street in this village scale town. We are across from the town well and the double row of brass prayer wheels which the monks seem to be constantly turning. Page 351 Wanderer Many handheld prayer wheels are turned round and round endlessly. What a fine peaceful place. The vibe here is so authentically spiritual―all positive and good from the highest order. This is very far out and groovy! Page 353 Wanderer

The Tibetans carry on a unique spiritual culture, centered on the practice of Buddhism and following the leadership of the Dalai Lama. Page 351 Wanderer

We are packing up and preparing to catch a very lo¬cal bus to McLeod Ganj. All aboard. We travel through the lush green jungles of the mountains. Many beautiful views and small farms dot the roadway. All Tibetans, everywhere. Page 351 Wanderer

I stayed up real late tonight by myself out on the street, just gazing upward at the sky. The Milky Way is as plain as can be. A huge band of light spreads across the sky to its end at each horizon, as if rising out of the mountains that engulf me. Page 357 Wanderer

I walk to the Buddhist Temple and monastery where the Dalai Lama lives on the edge of town. I enter the Temple and take a seat next to some meditating monks. I go into my head and meditate in silence for an hour inside the temple. Page 353 Wanderer This temple is filled with many fascinating statues of praying monks. The spiritual tranquility emanates from all spaces in this temple. Page 354 Wanderer

It is amazing to walk amongst groups of Tibetan Buddhists gathered together to pray and chant and meditate. Many handheld prayer wheels are turned round and round endlessly. What a fine peaceful place. Page 352 Wanderer

Delhi, India

I feel so miniscule here, as it’s shoulder to shoulder people squeezing through the streets. I’m claustrophobic and I fear I could drown in a sea of shit. Delhi is just too much for me. (Wanderer, page 361)

I’m walking along, transfixed, gazing at the mystical sky, when suddenly I fall into a huge hole in the sidewalk, injuring myself. I was not watching where I was walking and I’m paying for it now. (Wanderer, page 408)

Destitute local native sleeping in the street

Agra, India

After our train ride through the plains and jungles of India, we get off in a bustling City of Agra. We locate a cycle rickshaw driver who wheels us out to the Red Fort. The Fort is a conglomeration of palaces, mosques, and other Royal things, set inside a humongous red-walled city. The fabulous complex is surrounded by jungle in all directions. (Wanderer, page 363)

We spend a couple days in Agra city before heading back out on the road. It is a vibrant, exciting city with a great market area. (Wanderer, page 364)

We catch a glimpse of the Taj Mahal from afar. It is a thrill to see it in the distance―the famous image I’ve seen so many times in pictures. It’s a magnificent sight, spectacularly beautiful and sublime above the junglescape. (Wanderer, page 363)

We are let off and glide up the long walkway to arrive at the white marble stairs. What a thrill to ascend the stairs and walk by the long ivory marble reflecting pond, then up the marble stairs and into this world-famous structure. (Wanderer, page 363)

It is wonderful to meander a bit to various spots in the gardens around the main structure and to sit on the lawn and contemplate over the powerful yet simply classic architecture. The reality of the place just blows my mind. (Wanderer, page 364)

A Holy Man walks up to me and draws a two-colored third eye on my forehead, in red framed by black. I am cosmic! I am everywhere―past, present, future! I am at one with my soul. My cosmic connection vibrates to my core. (Wanderer, page 364)

Banaras, India

Back to the commotion of the streets, I wander past cow after cow amongst the people. Cows are sacred here. The animals meander about, doing their own business, free as can be standing in the middle of the street, at a busy corner, just about any and everywhere. (Wanderer, page 323)

Next day I mill about the hotel a bit, then go on a wandering journey in the holy area by the Ganges river. The waterway is very wide and green. I see groups of people surrounding piles of wood, burning dead bodies along the steps, called ghats, that go down to the Holy river. (Wanderer, page 365)

I feel the heat of the fires blow back at me from my upper vantage point and try not to inhale the smoke that seems to stink of the smoldering bodies. Morbid. Surreal. Otherworldly. Reality. (Wanderer, page 365)

The three of us leave the dorm room and head down to the Ganges and the ghats together. “What does the word ‘ghats’ mean, mate?” inquires Paul. “A ‘ghat’ is simply a flight of steps leading down to the river,” I reply. “The ghats are everywhere along the Ganges here in Banares. They extend on and on.” (Wanderer, page 396)

The ghats are filled with an endless stream of people―natives, pilgrims, Sādhus, the Holy Men of India. I look out in amazement at all the activity. Many of the pilgrims line up for a ritual dip in the Ganges. (Wanderer, page 397)

This specific ghat we’re at is called the Ramesh Ghat. An endless procession of people, most of them on pilgrimage, are everywhere. We walk down the flight of steps midway and cop a seat. Paul lights the chillum and we pass it around amongst ourselves. (Wanderer, page 396)

With their costumes, makeup, and props, many of the Sādhus look as if they could be actors for the stage. But this is a real life commitment experience—24x7x365—for these ascetic Bābā’s. They emulate various manifestations of the Hindu deities. What a fantastic spectacle it is as I come across a great gathering of Sādhus at the ghats. (Wanderer, page 397)

Some of them carry a fearsome appearance. Some of them painted in ash from head to toe, look as if they just crawled out of a grave, zombie-like. (Wanderer, page 397)

I notice several Sādhus in a small gathering circle smoking a chillum of hashish. The holy man shouts “Alakh!” before taking a puff. The long-haired, naked Bābā covered in ash, passes the chillum to the Sādhu next to him. This holy man shouts, “Bum Shiva!” then takes a hit from the chillum. (Wanderer, page 398)

View Attributions

Flikr: Agra - Taj Mahal 1
Flikr: Agra - Taj Mahal 2
Flikr: Agra - Red Fort
Flikr: Agra - Great Gate of Red Fort
Flikr: Agra-Taj Mahal 3 w people
Flikr: Agra-Market Street
Flikr: Agra-Market Oxen
Flikr: Banares - Ghats 1 at Night
Flikr: Banares - Ghats 2 daytime
Flikr: Banares-Ghats 3 Meditation
Flikr: Banares-Ghats 4 Masses
Flikr: Banares-Ghats 5 Buildings
Flikr: Banares - Sadhu 1 chillum smoking
Flikr: Banares - Sadhu 2 three happy saddhus
Flikr: Banares - Sadhus 3 two saddhus
Flikr: Banares-Sahus 4 holy men
Flikr: Banares - Cremation Fires Burning Bodies
Flikr: Banares-Cremattion Fires-2
Flikr: Banares-Street cows
Flikr: Banares-Alley shops
Flikr: Banares - Sarnath - Deer Park
Flikr: Delhi - Red Fort in Delhi
Flikr: Delhi - Street Scene
Flikr: Delhi - Vehicles on Street
Flikr: Delhi-Astronomy Garden
Ruven: Delhi-Hippy on the street
Flikr: Delhi-Woman sleeping on street
Ruven: Delhi - People street scene
Flikr: McCloud Ganj - Monks 1 Yellow
Flikr: McCloud Ganj - Prayer Wheels
Wikipedia: McCloud Ganj - Temple
Wikipedia: McCloud Ganj - Dalai Lama
Flikr: McCloud Ganj -Monks Happy
Flikr: McCloud Ganj-Tibetan Native
Wikipedia: McCloud Ganj-Main Street
Wikipedia: McCloud Ganj-Panarama
Wikipedia: McCloud Ganj-Mountain Café
Flikr: Pahalgam - Sheshnag Lake 1
Flikr: Pahalgam - Sheshnag Lake 2
Flikr: Pahalgam - Mountain ViewTrek -
Flikr: Pahalgam-Bus Station
Flikr: Pahalgam-River Valley
Flikr: Pahalgam-Campsite on river
Flikr: Pahalgam-Trout for Dinner
Flikr: Srinagar, Kashmir - House Boats & Market boats
Flikr: Srinagar, Kashmir - river view
Flikr: Srinagar, Kashmir - Dal Lake
Flikr: Srinagar, Kashmir - Green Valley Mountain view
Ruven: Srinigar, Kashmir - row of Shikaras
Flikr: Srinigar, Kashmir - Shalimar Gardens
Flikr: Srinigar, Kashmir- City Street w shops
Flikr: Srinigar, Kashmir-Muslim holy men
Ruven: Srinigar, Kashmir-jhelum river view 1972